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  Special actives - lipids
 
Phospholipids - the all-rounders
What does an element like phosphorus that rather is associated with the match industry have to do with skin and cosmetics? As a matter of fact, most of the processes in which the substance is involved take place without becoming aware of them. It is not exaggerating to say that phosphorus and phospholipids are absolutely vital for life.
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Biodegradable lamellar systems in skin care, skin protection and dermatology
ABSTRACT: The following review comprises background, literature and applications of biodegradable lamellar systems, their characteristics and limitations. The article is focussed on phosphatidylcholine containing preparations like liposomes, nanodispersions and derma membrane structure.
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Fats and oils in cosmetics - Mother Nature versus petrochemicals?   (long version)
Fats and oils are important ingredients of skin care. The properties of hydrocarbons and silicones are compared with vegetable and synthetic triglycerides. The influences on skin recovery and long term effects are described. The present literature is reviewed from the physiological point of view.
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Oils and fats in cosmetic products - Mother Nature contra petrochemical industry?
A subject that has launched controversial discussions over and over again is the use of mineral oil based hydrocarbons in cosmetic products. Above all in the cold season it gains importance as the skin is sensitive to cold and dry air and should therefore be protected with re-fattening substances. Where is the difference between oils and waxes of petrochemical origin and natural fats and oils?
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Liposomes
INTRODUCTION: Publications about and patents on liposomes, along with their different chemical components, preparation, and use in skincare products have often been reviewed [1-4]. The reviews do not need any additional comments. Of interest are general questions, such as why liposomes should be used in cosmetics, what functionalities are expected from them, and what advantages they do provide compared with alternative formulations.The properties of the widely used main component of liposomes, phosphatidylcholine, play a key role in answering these questions. Other compounds such as niotensides and ceramides, which are naturally predestined for the preparation of liposomes, are less important today. Niotensides do not offer superior claims, and ceramides are not available in sufficient quantities and qualities at affordable prices.
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Lipophilic substances - oils and lipids in cosmetic products
Although they apparently fail to show any spectacular effects, oils and lipids belong to the most important ingredients in cosmetic products. From the corneotherapeutic point of view they are right in the focus of current interest: selectively applied they help to regenerate damaged skin.
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Active agents - the effective skin care: lipids, the basic elements
Lipids play an important role among cosmetic active agents for the skin care. In terms of quantity, they are the most frequently used ingredients of cosmetics besides water. Seen from the historic perspective, skin care actually began with the use of lipids. Depending on geographical regions and culture, olive oil, sesame oil, sperm oil and animal lipids of different origin were the first basic skin care substances.
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Strong effects - phospholipids in cosmetics
Phospholipids are indispensable for the live organism and play an essential role for both health and nutrition due to a great variety of different functions. They also prove to be perfect base substances for cosmetic products.
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The Use of Liposomes from Soya Phospholipids in Cosmetics
This article shows that on the one hand the development of the liposomes technology offers great chances for many new cosmetic products (which are very desirable from the consumer's point of view), but that on the other hand the cosmetics developer has to deal very intensively with questions of raw material selection, characterization of raw and finished products as well as the question about the biological fate of his formulations, in order to avoid risks. In this connection, soya phospholipids in the form of liposomes have much to recommend them, in view of their wide spectrum of activity and the decades of experience with these natural raw materials in food and pharmaceuticals.
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Revision: 16.05.2008