Cosmetic liposomes always consist of a mixture of unilamellar and multilamellar liposomes as the manufacturing process for pure unilamellar liposomes is much more elaborate and hence more expensive. In contrast to differing advertising messages, the number of shells has no influence on the encapsulation, penetration and efficacy of active agents. The concentration of phosphatidylcholine (PC) is the crucial factor in the efficacy of liposomes. Unfortunately, PC has no specific denomination in the INCI but is listed as lecithin and there it occurs as one component among many others.
The penetrating mechanism is described in the publication "Applied corneotherapy and skin care - guidelines for the anti-aging treatment"
Dr. Hans Lautenschläger