publications >> problem skin imprint sitemap German
 
welcome
news
products
publications
anti-aging
base creams
skin diagnosis
skin protection
ingredients
beauty institutes
products
problem skin
special actives
patents
books
skin topics
corneotherapy
mediathek
skin testing
trade fairs & trainings
KOKO - the company
 
Suche - Search
  "Acne caused by too many different moisturizing factors in creams?"
 
 

Moisturizing factors in cosmetic products mostly relate to the NMF (natural moisturizing factor) components. The NMF consists of different substance groups like amino acids as e.g glycine, serine, alanine, asparagine, ornithine, citrulline, proline, acids like pyroglutamic acid, lactic acid, urocanic acid, citric acid, inorganic salts like chlorides and phosphates of the alkaline and alkaline earth metals, urea and glycerin. All these substances maintain the osmotic balance in the skin. In cosmetic products only some substances are used and besides the NMF also substances like propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol and sorbitol (sugar substitute) with a comparable but slightly reduced effect are applied.
A fat and moist skin which generally develops in the adolescence phase and which is the base for youth acne, does not require any moisturizing substances, rather on the contrary. In this case it is important to focus on a reduction of sebum lipids and the related increase of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) in order to avoid the moist conditions where the propioni acne bacteria may thrive. Nitrogenous compounds like amino acids additionally provide an ideal breeding ground. Slightly different are polyhydric alcohols like glycol and glycerin: just like the volatile ethyl alcohol they also show antiseptic effects in higher concentrations.
Conclusion: NMF substances should be avoided on fat and moist skin susceptible for acne. This however does not apply for normal and dry skin as acne is not caused by surplus NMFs here. On the contrary: experience shows that an increased moisture loss on the skin surface usually leads to inclusions like sebum cysts and closed comedones which may aggravate an acne condition.
Finally, it should be mentioned, that any excess skin care i.e. by high dosages of cosmetic substances like lipids, emulsifiers and active agents will involve all kinds of undesired reactions.

Dr. Hans Lautenschläger und Elke Klein

 
Please note: The publication is based on the state of the art at the publishing date of the specialist journal.

Kindly inform us at koko@dermaviduals.de if you have found any misprint or any other relevant mistake on this page

© Copyright Kosmetik Konzept KOKO GmbH & Co.KG, Leichlingen, www.dermaviduals.de
Revision: 27.10.2007
 
 
Download
 

published in
Leserforum: Kosmetische Praxis
2006 (3), 4

 
problem skin - further literature
Chain reaction - skin enzymes and enzyme defects
Contact dermatoses - causes, prevention and professional care of irritated skin
Perioral dermatitis - causes, treatment and differentiation
Acne - the potentials of cosmetic prevention
Overdoing skin care - too much of a good thing
Skin care before and after surgery
Careful with washing! - Gentle skin care for babies and small children
Skin care at strong sweat formation*
Repairing the barrier - on active agents and active agent systems to support the skin regeneration
Protecting the skin barrier - fungal infections and skin care
Shady sides - manifestations of light dermatoses
Landing approach - preparing for the final descent - skincare for pregnant women
Skin - from the outside in
Food intolerance - when food irritates the skin
Treatment of problem skins - an overview
Skin care during cancer therapy
Corneotherapy
Skin care for the vitiligo-affected skin - aspirations and reality
Cellulite from A to Z
Crossing borders - on the boundaries of cosmetic skin care
Corneotherapeutic skin care for the rosacea skin
Hormone cycles - menopause skin care
Skin care for the adolescent skin
Skin care for psoriasis skin - individually adapted
"I cannot tolerate this product" - the influence of medical drugs on skin and skin care
Delicate children skin - criteria for the adequate skin care
Stressed skin - itching & Co. - causes and remedies
Skin reactions - cosmetics and their effects
Scars - cosmetic prevention and skin care
Skin care during radiotherapy - soothing, vitalizing and protecting
Skin elasticity - what can cosmetics achieve?
Dermopharmacy - decorative cosmetics for problem skin
Couperosis - a field for active agent concentrates
Good looks, protection and skin care all inclusive: make-up for the problem skin
Photodamaged skin: sun-bathing and after sun care
"Acne caused by too many different moisturizing factors in creams?"
Irritated skin - skin in a state of turmoil
Actinic keratoses - an endemic disease?
Mixed skin - a skin with two different faces
Reddened Skin - what may cause the symptom?
History and current aspects of corneotherapy1)
Skin care for the neurodermitic skin - supporting the skin barrier
Cornification disorders - the adequate skin care
Skin barrier disorders - preventive measures
Acne - prevention and care
Essential fatty acids - cosmetic from inside and outside
Psoriasis - the appropriate care
Neurodermatitis - specific prevention